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Below you'll find some of the Most Frequently Asked Questions......

Last Updated Dec. 7, 2006

Q: Are Von Fenwald German Shepherds considered American Shepherds or German Shepherds?
A:  Our Shepherds are 100% West German Shepherds.  All of our dogs are either directly Imported from Germany or are 1st Generation born here in America out of Imported West German Parents.  

Q: You state that you are from Germany.  What part of Germany does your family come from?
A:  We are from Dieburg, a small town outside of Darmstadt which is a few hours away from Frankfurt.  Dieburg is located in the Hessen Region.  

                           Germany

Q:  Are Von Fenwald German Shepherds from Show Lines or Working Lines?
A:  Our dogs are from Show Lines with Strong Working Ability.

Q:  What are the major differences between the Show Lines & Working Lines?
A:  The Show Line Breeders focus on Beauty and Correct Structure as well as Working Ability.  They believe that without the correct Form there is no Function.  In other words, if the machine (dog) is not correctly built, it will not perform in it's working ability properly.  It will have to work twice as hard to get half as much.  In general, over the years, the Working Line Breeders have concentrated mainly on the working ability of the dog, particularly the protection phase of working.  They began breeding scorebook to scorebook ignoring correctness of conformation.  
As a result their dogs began to look long and stretched, flat at the withers, sloppy toplines that wobble, etc.  It
is rare that you will see Working bloodline dogs that receive the KKL1 Rating  which means Highly Recommended For Breeding.  If they even have a Koer Klasse rating it will probably be KKL2 which means that the dog probably has serious Faults in conformation.  Although the KKL2 dog may be bred, it is strongly Recommended that they seek out a Dog that can try to begin to fix those faults.

Q:  Can you show me a picture of a Showline Dog & a Working Line Dog
       so that I can see the difference between your dogs and working line
       breeders dogs?

A:   No problem....

       Pictured below are 2 of our Foundation Stud Dogs:
       VA-Kayos vom Felsenwehr AD, BH, SchH3, KKL1"a" lbz.
       VA-Hafran's Cimon  AD, BH, SchH3, BHP3, IP3, KKL1"a" lbz.

  
                                                                     

 

 

 Picture coming soon.

Q:  How  would a Top Show line Breeder in Germany critique the Conformation of the above shown working line dog?
A:   Not worthy of being bred.  Actually the word they would use in Germany would not be suitable for publication.
 
Q:  Since the Show line dogs have better conformation and obviously are more beautiful, do they cost more than the working line dogs?
A:  Does a Mercedes cost more than a Chevy?  Of course!

Q:  But I only want a pet?
A:  I guess I would have to ask, do you want an Ugly Pet?  Most people in this world like to have something beautiful, something they can be Proud of.

Q:  Is there a difference in Temperament between the Showlines & the  
  
   Working line dogs?
A:  It has been my experiences that The Showlines are calmer in the house, more polished, refined.  Many of the Working lines tend to  more busy bodies, pacing relentlessly like a caged animal at the zoo.  This is not true of all Working lines.  I have had excellent results with certain Working Lines. especially from Denmark.  

Q:  If I got a Working line dog would it be Guaranteed to be able to Work in Schutzhund?
A:  Not at all, just because it is from "Working" lines doesn't mean it will actually work.

Q: If I got a Show line dog would it be Guaranteed to be able to Show in the Ring?
A:  Not at all.  Not all pups are created equally in a litter.  Some will be clearly better than others.  If you get a Top Show Prospect, the chances are very good that it will succeed...provided of course that you actually know how to train & handle it properly.

Q:  Are Von Fenwald dogs Safe around Children?
A:  Absolutely!  We pride ourselves in using only the finest bloodlines, with the best temperaments available in the world.  Our dogs are "Kid Tested, Granny Approved!"

Q:  We don't have children now but plan on having kids in the future.  How can I make sure that when my puppy grows up it will like children?
A:  All of our puppies are exposed to toddlers, small children, adolescents,
teenagers, and old folks.  Once you purchase a Von Fenwald Puppy we will guide you every step of the way, no problem.  Our dogs Love children.

Q.  Should we neuter our male dog?



A:  Read the article below and then if you own one of our pups give me a call.  We've probably already talked about this...but I'll say it again....  
                               DON'T DO IT!  Give me a call.

 

 ISSUES REGARDING CASTRATION IN DOGS

Politically correct conventional wisdom is not necessarily biologically correct. Also, old wives tales regarding testicles and behavioral matters are often just that.

The only true justifications for castrating dogs are 1) aggressive behavior toward other dogs in the same household, and 2) perianal adenoma in old dogs.

Aggression to other dogs in situations outside the house is pretty normal dog behavior. Appropriate behavior. Since your dog will be on lead or inside a secure fence at all times, there should be no problem with dogs outside your household. However, if male house mates fight, and both need to stay with you, castration of one or both may solve the aggression problems. If you fault your dog for being aggressive to acquaintances while being walked on lead, you should not. He is guarding you. That simple. Honorable behavior. If you fault your dog for aggression in a 'dog park' where he is running free, or on the beach, or in the woods, well shame on you; you're the one at fault for risking his life in such an uncontrolled situation. Dogs that can manage such encounters without aggression are fine, but you cannot automatically expect a dog to have friendly relations with animals from outside his own 'pack'. It goes against his whole evolution.

Perianal adenomas, benign but messy tumors in old dogs may be treated by castration.

In terms of your dog's health, two overriding concerns are present. Castration at an early age will cause the dog to become overly tall, as the growth plates in the long bones will not close at the appropriate time; additionally, the dog will lack breadth of chest. The combination of these two factors sets the stage for your dog to have painful orthopedic problems. The OFA has published articles on this subject. An early age means below 1 year in small and medium sized dogs, and below 2 to 2.5 years in large and giant breeds.

The statement that your dog will not automatically gain weight is rubbish. Removing sexual hormones will change his metabolism and make your dog more sluggish, resulting almost inevitably in weight gain. Also, muscle tone will decline after castration, and the classic result of this is a fat dog in poor muscle tone that ends up having a cruciate ligament rupture in the knee. Can you avoid the consequences to weight and condition? Sure in the ideal world it's possible, but in the real world, the overwhelming proportion of owners do not succeed in this endeavor.

The second concern regarding your dog's health is highly malignant prostate cancer. Virtually all malignant prostatic tumors in dogs occur in castrated dogs. Castrating your dog puts him at risk for one of the worst cancers he can get. While you remove the very slight risk of testicular cancer in castrated dogs, that's a small matter; the incidence of testicular cancer is so minimal. Also, almost all testicular cancers in dogs are benign. If we find a testicular tumor, we normally remove the testicle with the mass and leave the remaining one intact. The relative incidence and severity of the tumors of the prostate relative to tumors of the testicle makes the decision to keep your dog intact a virtual no-brainer. The information on the incidence prostatic malignancies was obtained through a very large study of the records at veterinary colleges. These findings have been published for several years.*

Infection or inflammation of the prostate may occur in intact male dogs that are chronically exposed to bitches in heat. These are often worrisome to owners who seem to confuse prostatitis with the more serious prostate cancer. Prostatic infections are easily treated, and not, per se, a reason for castration.

So, the bottom line is:
     1. Never castrate your dog because it is Politically Correct
     2. Only castrate your dog if his home life is at risk due to dog-to-dog aggression, or if, at the age of 11 years or so, he develops a perianal adenoma.

Mary C. Wakeman, D.V.M.
©2004


 

Q:  What are some good books to read on GSD's?
A.  Here's a few.  Check out Amazon.com
for more.
German Shepherds for Dummies by D. Caroline CoileA New Owner's Guide to German Shepherds by Charlotte Schwartz  German Shepherds by Julie Mars                                                the good shepherd           

schutzhund theory and training methods
        

                                                                                                                                                                             

 

 

   

Q.  How do we go about getting a pup from Von Fenwald?
A.  Fill out the Questionnaire form located on either the Contact Page or the bottom of the Pups For Sale Page.  Make sure you put your phone numbers there so that we can contact you.  Then either give us a call or we'll give you a call.  After we have a conversation we'll both know if we're a good match.

Q.  Can anyone get a pup from Fenwald?
A.  No, approx. 20- 25% of the people who contact us don't qualify.

Q. What makes them not qualify, do they not have enough money?
A.  No!  It's not the size of your wallet that counts, it's the Size of your Heart.

Q.  Would you prefer to sell the top pups to Show Homes?
A.  Not necessarily.  Often times people who just want to Show look at dogs as strictly a commodity.  What is most important to us is that our dogs become an integral part of the family.  That they are treated with the utmost of respect, and deeply cherished and loved.  The Quality of Life that our dogs will have is absolutely the MOST IMPORTANT thing.  A Trophy sitting on the mantle doesn't mean anything to me if the dog then resides in a dark, damp, nasty barn.  I'd rather see the dog be a Champion in the Hearts of its owners and live in the lap of luxury for it's entire life than be simply another dog out in some kennel.    

Q. I've heard that in order for the dog to do well in the Show Ring or Schutzhund Field that the dog should be kept in a kennel for all it's life.  That way when you finally let it out it wants to work.  
A.  That's the biggest bunch of boloney I've ever heard.  You'll hear that often from idiots at the Schutzhund Clubs.  It is their way of rationalizing why they don't allow their dogs in the house.  Our dog Satoris Jup lived in the house and made Landessgruppen Sieger in Germany.  Carina lived in the house and slept on my bed and made VA2-Vice Siegerin of the United States while being pregnant!  It's just not true!

Q.  Is it possible to place a deposit on a pup from a certain litter?
A.  Yes, of course, after the interview process that is.

Q.  How much is the deposit?
A.   That depends on how old the pup is.  The older the pup, the higher the deposit required.

Q.  What if the female is pregnant but the pups aren't born yet?
A.   The deposit is usually $200.00 before they are born.  
       Then once they are born the deposit must be bumped up to $500.00
       Then when they reach 3-4 weeks the deposit total must be $1,000.00
       The balance is then due a minimum of 1 week before shipping or pickup.
        The funds must clear the bank before shipping.

Q.  Is the deposit refundable if we change our mind about getting a puppy?
A.  The placing of a deposit is an act of commitment of "good faith" to complete the sale and guarantee that the pup has a home when they are ready to be released.  It is customary throughout the dog industry to withhold the deposit if the buyer decides not to complete the sale.  This also applies for most horse transactions and cats, etc.

Q. Is it possible to apply our deposit to another dog or pup at a later date?
A.  Sometimes circumstances change and it is not the best time to bring a new dog into the family.  Under certain circumstances we may grant that.

Q.  How much notice is required in order to transfer the deposit to another litter?
A.  After the pups are 2 weeks old the deposit is not transferable.

Q.  Who gets to pick first in the litter of pups?
A.   The only fair way is 1st Come, 1st Served.  So 1st deposit received chooses 1st.

Q.  Do you ship dogs/pups anywhere in the world?
A.  No.  We will not ship our pups anywhere that requires longer than an 10  hour flight.  
    We will not allow our pups to suffer such a long flight.
    Since we are centrally located here in Illinois, most flight require less than 4  hours anywhere in the US.  We use a "RED CARPET" service which allows the pups to be the last thing on the plane and the first one off.

Q.  Is it possible to fly into Chicago and come and pick up our puppy?
A.  Absolutely!  We'd love to meet you and have you come here.  We'll even help you get a hotel room, directions, etc.
       
Q.  What's the real deal with what's in Pet Foods?
A.   Read the articles below...it should help to answer some of the questions.
       But in a nutshell...dog food is Crap.  It's dead, dying and diseased animal parts,  sprayed with old restaurant grease and chicken fat, and Clearly Not Fit For Human Consumption.  Basically...pick your poison...they're all bad, but some are clearly worse than others.

Did you know that?:

== The maximum life span of a small DOG is estimated to be about 27 years & yet the average dog lives only approximately 13 years?

== The maximum life span of a CAT is estimated to be about 25-30 years & yet the average cat lives only approximately 14 years?


The Pet Food Industry advertising promotes the idea that, to keep your pets healthy, you must feed them commercially formulated pet foods. But such a diet has been proven to contribute to CANCER, ALLERGIES, SKIN PROBLEMS, HIP DYSPLASIA, HYPERTENSION, KIDNEY & LIVER FAILURE, HEART DISEASE and DENTAL PROBLEMS to name a few!!

WHAT IS REALLY IN YOUR PET FOOD???

"Plump whole chickens, choice cuts of beef, fresh
grains, and all the wholesome nutrition your dog
or cat will ever need."

These are the images pet food manufacturers promote
through the media and advertising. This is what
the $11 billion per year U.S. pet food industry
wants consumers to believe they are buying when they
purchase their products.

This report explores the differences between what
consumers think they are buying and what they are
actually getting. It focuses in very general terms
on the most visible name brands - the pet food
labels that are mass-distributed to supermarkets
and discount stores - but there are many highly
respected brands that may be guilty of the same
offenses.

What most consumers don't know is that the pet food
industry is an extension of the human food and
agriculture industries. Pet food provides a market
for slaughterhouse throw aways, grains considered
"unfit for human consumption," and similar waste
products to be turned into HUGE profit. This waste
includes: intestines, udders, esophagi, and possibly
diseased and cancerous animal parts.

Three of the five major pet food companies in the
United States are subsidiaries of major multinational
companies: Nestlé (Alpo, Fancy Feast, Friskies,
Mighty Dog), Heinz (9 Lives, Amore, Gravy Train,
Kibbles n Bits, Recipe, Vets), Colgate-Palmolive
(Hill's Science Diet Pet Food). Other leading
companies are Procter & Gamble (Eukanuba and Iams),
Mars (Kal Kan, Mealtime, Pedigree, Sheba), and Nutro.

From a business standpoint, multinational companies
owning pet food manufacturing companies is an ideal
relationship. The multinationals have a captive market
in which to capitalize on their waste products,
and the pet food manufacturers have a reliable source
from which to purchase their bulk materials.

There are hundreds of different pet foods available
in this country. And while many of the foods on the
market are virtually the same, not all of the pet food
manufacturing companies use poor quality and
potentially dangerous ingredients.

 GENERAL PET FOOD INGREDIENTS

Although the purchase price of pet food does not
always determine whether a pet food is good or bad,
the price is often a good indicator of quality.
It would be impossible for a company that sells a
generic brand of dog food at $9.95 for a 40-lb. bag
to use quality protein and grain in its food. The
cost of purchasing quality ingredients would be much
higher than the selling price.

The protein used in pet food comes from a variety of
sources. When cattle, swine, chickens, lambs, or any
number of other animals are slaughtered, the choice
cuts such as lean muscle tissue are trimmed away from
the carcass for human consumption.

However, about 50% of every food-producing animal
does not get used in human foods. Whatever remains
of the carcass - bones, blood, intestines, lungs,
ligaments, and almost all the other parts not
generally consumed by humans - is used in pet food,
animal feed, and other products. These "other parts"
are known as "by-products" or other names on pet food
labels. The ambiguous labels list the ingredients,
but do not provide a definition for the products listed.

The Pet Food Institute - the trade association of pet
food manufacturers - acknowledges the use of
by-products in pet foods as additional income for
processors and farmers: "The growth of the pet food
industry not only provided pet owners with better
foods for their pets, but also created profitable
additional markets for American farm products and
for the byproducts of the meat packing, poultry,
and other food industries which prepare food for human
consumption."

Many of these remnants provide a questionable source
of nourishment for our animals. The nutritional
quality of meat and poultry by-products, meals,
and digests can vary from batch to batch. James
Morris and Quinton Rogers, two professors with the
Department of Molecular Biosciences, University of
California at Davis Veterinary School of Medicine,
assert that, "There is virtually no information on
the bioavailability of nutrients for companion
animals in many of the common dietary ingredients
used in pet foods. These ingredients are generally
by-products of the meat, poultry and fishing
industries, with the potential for a wide variation
in nutrient composition. Claims of nutritional
adequacy of pet foods based on the current
Association of American Feed Control Officials
(AAFCO) nutrient allowances ('profiles') do not give
assurances of nutritional adequacy and will not until
ingredients are analyzed and bioavailability values
are incorporated."

Meat and poultry meals, by-product meals, and
meat-and-bone meal are common ingredients in pet
foods. The term "meal" means that these materials
are not used fresh, but have been rendered.

What is rendering? Rendering, as defined by Webster's
Dictionary, is "to process as for industrial use:
to render livestock carcasses and to extract oil
from fat, blubber, etc., by melting." Home-made
chicken soup, with its thick layer of fat that
forms over the top when the soup is cooled, is a
sort of mini-rendering process. Rendering separates
fat-soluble from water-soluble and solid materials,
and kills bacterial contaminants, but may alter or
destroy some of the natural enzymes and proteins
found in the raw ingredients.

What can the feeding of such products do to your
companion animal? Many veterinarians claim that
feeding slaughterhouse wastes to animals tremendously 
increases their risk of getting cancer, seizures and other 
degenerative diseases.  Afterall, we are what we eat.
The cooking methods used by pet food
manufacturers - such as rendering and extruding
(a heat- and-pressure system used to "puff" dry
foods into nuggets or kibbles) - do not necessarily
destroy the hormones used to fatten livestock or
increase milk production, or drugs such as antibiotics
or the barbiturates used to euthanize animals.

 SPECIFIC PET FOOD INGREDIENTS

 Animal and Poultry Fat....

You may have noticed a unique, pungent odor when you
open a new bag of pet food - what is the source of
that delightful smell? It is most often rendered
animal fat, restaurant grease, or other oils too
rancid or deemed inedible for humans.

Restaurant grease has become a major component of
feed grade animal fat over the last fifteen years.
This grease, often held in fifty-gallon drums, is
usually kept outside for weeks, exposed to extreme
temperatures with no regard for its future use.
"Fat blenders" or rendering companies then pick up
this used grease and mix the different types of fat
together, stabilize them with powerful antioxidants
to retard further spoilage, and then sell the blended
products to pet food companies and other end users.

These fats are sprayed directly onto dried kibbles
or extruded pellets to make an otherwise bland or
distasteful product palatable. The fat also acts as a
binding agent to which manufacturers add other flavor
enhancers such as digests. Pet food scientists have
discovered that animals love the taste of these
sprayed fats. Manufacturers are masters at getting a
dog or a cat to eat something she would normally turn
up his or her nose at.

 Wheat, Soy, Corn, Peanut Hulls, and Other
    Vegetable Protein....


The amount of grain products used in pet food has
risen over the last decade. Once considered filler
by the pet food industry, cereal and grain products
now replace a considerable proportion of the meat
that was used in the first commercial pet foods.

The availability of nutrients in these products is
dependent upon the digestibility of the grain.
The amount and type of carbohydrate in pet food
determines the amount of nutrient value the animal
actually gets. Dogs and cats can almost completely
absorb carbohydrates from some grains, such as white
rice. Up to 20% of the nutritional value of other
grains can escape digestion. The availability of
nutrients for wheat, beans, and oats is poor.
The nutrients in potatoes and corn are far less
available than those in rice. Some ingredients,
such as peanut hulls, are used for filler or fiber,
and have no significant nutritional value.

Two of the top three ingredients in pet foods,
particularly dry foods, are almost always some form
of grain products. Pedigree Performance Food for
Dogs lists Ground Corn, Chicken By-Product Meal,
and Corn Gluten Meal as its top three ingredients.
9 Lives Crunchy Meals for cats lists Ground Yellow
Corn, Corn Gluten Meal, and Poultry By-Product Meal
as its first three ingredients. Since cats are true
carnivores - they must eat meat to fulfill certain
physiological needs - one may wonder why we are feeding
a corn-based product to them. The answer is that
corn is much cheaper than meat.

In 1995, Nature's Recipe pulled thousands of tons
of dog food off the shelf after consumers complained
that their dogs were vomiting and losing their
appetite. Nature's Recipe's loss amounted to $20
million. The problem was a fungus that produced
vomitoxin (an aflatoxin or "mycotoxin," a toxic
substance produced by mold) contaminating the wheat.

In 1999, another fungal toxin triggered the recall of
dry dog food made by Doane Pet Care at one of its
plants, including Ol' Roy (Wal-Mart's brand) and 53
other brands. This time, the toxin killed 25 dogs.

Although it caused many dogs to vomit, stop eating,
and have diarrhea, vomitoxin is a milder toxin than
most. The more dangerous mycotoxins can cause
weight loss, liver damage, lameness, and even death
as in the Doane case. The Nature's Recipe incident
prompted the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to
intervene. Dina Butcher, Agriculture Policy Advisor
for North Dakota Governor Ed Schafer, concluded that
the discovery of vomitoxin in Nature's Recipe wasn't
much of a threat to the human population because
"the grain that would go into pet food is not a high
quality grain."

Soy is another common ingredient that is sometimes
used as a protein and energy source in pet food.
Manufacturers also use it to add bulk so that when
an animal eats a product containing soy he will feel
more sated. While soy has been linked to gas in
some dogs, other dogs do quite well with it.
Vegetarian dog foods use soy as a protein source.

SPECIFIC PET FOOD INGREDIENTS 2

 Additives and Preservatives

Many chemicals are added to commercial pet foods to
improve the taste, stability, characteristics, or
appearance of the food. Additives provide no
nutritional value. Additives include emulsifiers
to prevent water and fat from separating,
antioxidants to prevent fat from turning rancid,
and artificial colors and flavors to make the product
more attractive to consumers and more palatable to
their companion animals.

Adding chemicals to food originated thousands of
years ago with spices, natural preservatives, and
ripening agents. In the last 40 years, however,
the number of food additives has greatly increased.

All commercial pet foods contain preservatives. Some
of these are added to ingredients or raw materials by
the suppliers, and others may be added by the
manufacturer. Because manufacturers need to ensure
that dry foods have a long shelf life to remain
edible after shipping and prolonged storage, fats
included in pet foods are preserved with either
synthetic or "natural" preservatives. Synthetic
preservatives include butylated hydroxyanisole
(BHA) and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), propyl
gallate, propylene glycol (also used as a less-toxic
version of automotive antifreeze), and ethoxyquin.

For these antioxidants, there is little information
documenting their toxicity, safety, or chronic use
in pet foods that may be eaten every day for the
life of the animal.

Potentially cancer-causing agents such as BHA, BHT,
and ethoxyquin are permitted at relatively low
levels. The use of these chemicals in pet foods has
not been thoroughly studied, and long term build-up of
these agents may ultimately be harmful.

Due to questionable data in the original study on its
safety, ethoxyquin's manufacturer, Monsanto, was
required to perform a new, more rigorous study.
This was completed in 1996. Even though Monsanto found
no significant toxicity associated with its own
product, in July 1997, the FDA's Center for Veterinary
Medicine requested that manufacturers voluntarily
reduce the maximum level for ethoxyquin by half,
to 75 parts per million. While some pet food critics
and veterinarians believe that ethoxyquin is a major
cause of disease, skin problems, and infertility in
dogs,
others claim it is the safest, strongest,
most stable preservative available for pet
food.

Ethoxyquin is only approved for use in human food for
preserving spices, such as cayenne and chili powder,
at a level of 100 ppm -- but it would be very difficult
to consume as much chili powder every day as a dog would
eat dry food. Ethoxyquin has never been tested for
safety in cats.

Some manufacturers have responded to consumer concern,
and are now using "natural" preservatives such as
Vitamin C (ascorbate), Vitamin E (mixed tocopherols),
and oils of rosemary, clove, or other spices, to
preserve the fats in their products. Other ingredients,
however, may be individually preserved. Fish meal,
and some prepared vitamin mixtures used to supplement
pet food, contain chemical preservatives. This means
that your companion animal may be eating food containing
several types of preservatives. Not all of these are
required to be disclosed on the label. However, due to
consumer pressure, preservatives used in fat are now
required to be listed on the label.

Additives in Processed Pet Foods...
  
   Anticaking agents
   Antimicrobial agents
   Antioxidants
   Coloring agents
   Curing agents
   Drying agents
   Emulsifiers
   Firming agents
   Flavor enhancers
   Flavoring agents
   Flour treating agents
   Formulation aids
   Humectants
   Leavening agents
   Lubricants
   Nonnutritive sweeteners
   Nutritive sweeteners
   Oxidizing and reducing agents
   pH control agents
   Processing aids
   Sequestrants
   Solvents, vehicles
   Stabilizers, thickeners
   Surface active agents
   Surface finishing agents
   Synergists
   Texturizers

While the law requires studies of direct toxicity of
these additives and preservatives, they have not been
tested for their potential synergistic effects on each
other once ingested. Some authors have suggested that
dangerous interactions occur among some of the common
synthetic preservatives. Natural preservatives do not
provide as long a shelf life as chemical preservatives,
but they do not carry the unanswered questions about
their safety.

===============================================

PET FOOD LABELING

Many dog owners are as concerned about their pet's health as they are about their own. They are aware of a link between food and health, and some will pay exorbitant sums for food they perceive to be the best. Advertising, pricing and packaging play major roles in what foods are perceived to be the best. However, discerning consumers can learn much about a pet food by studying its label. The pet food industry is regulated by AAFCO (Association of American Feed Control Officials), and manufacturers of pet food are compelled to be more explicit in labeling than are manufacturers of livestock feeds. This article discusses some the regulations pertaining to pet food labeling with a goal of helping consumers get past the advertising glitz, and enable them to rationally compare and evaluate pet foods, and select the food most appropriate for their pet and perhaps more in line with their budget.

In accordance with AAFCO regulations, the following information must be present on a pet food package or label; 1) product and brand name, 2) animal for which the food is intended, 3) quantity statement or net weight, 4) guaranteed analysis, 5) ingredient statement, 6) a statement of nutritional adequacy or purpose, 7) feeding directions, and 8) name and address of the manufacturer or distributor. The first three of these required items must be on the principal display panel (that part of the package most likely to be displayed). The other required items may be anywhere on the package.

Even the name can convey valuable information to the consumer. According to AAFCO regulations, if an ingredient or combination of ingredients form a part of the name, then the ingredient or combination of ingredients must comprise at least 25% of the contents. For example, the name "Denny's Chicken Dinner for Dogs" would suggest at least 25% chicken in the dog food. If the ingredient is mentioned in the name or elsewhere on the label but contains a descriptor such as "with" then only 3% of the ingredient need be present. For example, the name "Denny's Dinner for Dogs with Chicken" would suggest that the product contains only 3% or a minimal amount of chicken.

The consumer should always look at the net weight of the package. Many times, in an effort to meet a certain price and still maintain the desired margin, a company will down-size a package from say 25 to 22 pounds, or from 40 to 37 pounds.

There are more than 40 nutrients required in the diets of dogs and cats but AAFCO requires guarantees on only four of these, viz., crude protein, crude fat, crude fiber, and moisture. Other nutrients may be guaranteed at the discretion of the manufacturer, including some like Vitamin C and omega-3 fatty acids which are not recognized by AAFCO as being required. The absence of a guarantee for a nutrient should not be construed to mean either that the nutrient is not present or that the nutrient is present at a lower level than in some other food where it is guaranteed. All manufacturers must by law meet the minimum nutrient requirements of the animal for which the food is intended.

AAFCO states that dogs require for growth and reproduction a minimum of 22 crude protein while cats require 30 percent. For maintenance, dogs and cats require a minimum of 18 and 26 percent crude protein, respectively. All of these requirements are stated on a dry matter basis, while guarantees on a label are expressed on a moist basis. A canned dog food with 7% crude protein and 70% moisture (30% dry matter) would actually contain 23% protein on a dry matter basis (7%÷0.30). Protein in the diet provides the dog or cat the building blocks needed for muscle growth. Major ingredients used by pet food manufacturers to supply protein in a pet food are meat (or beef) and bone meal, and poultry (or chicken) by-product meals (rendered parts of the carcasses of slaughtered poultry, beef and/or pork), and high protein products extracted from soybeans and corn (soybean meal and corn gluten meal). Labeling and advertising materials indicate that many of the national "premium" branded dog and cat foods contain as their number one ingredient "chicken" or "beef". Both meat products contain 65% or more water. This fact limits the amount of beef or chicken that can be incorporated in a pet food to about 20%. Containing about 15% protein, at this level of inclusion, the wet meat will provide only 3% crude protein to the diet. This is a minor percentage of the total protein content in most pet foods which generally contain 25% to 30% crude protein. The majority of protein in these diets is then provided by subsequent ingredients in the products' ingredient listing like rendered meat meal or chicken meal which may not have the sales appeal of the "real" meat. Soybean meal is an excellent reliable source of protein but has been overused in some of the less expensive "generic" store brands, often showing up in the #2 label position. This will lead to digestive disturbances due to the complex carbohydrates that are an integral component of the soybean. Stools from these dogs contain more moisture and are more difficult to remove from pens

AAFCO states that dogs require for growth and reproduction a minimum of 8% crude fat while cats require 9 percent. For maintenance, dogs and cats require 5 and 9 percent, respectively. Because fat is extremely palatable and digestible, many pet foods contain much more than the minimum required amounts of fat. Fat is the source of the essential fatty acids needed to maintain a healthy skin and coat. It is also a concentrated source of energy for the dog and cat, and may influence the intake of all other nutrients since animals generally eat to satisfy their energy needs. Fat is a natural component of many ingredients used in pet foods and animal fats (tallow and lard rendered from animal tissues) and vegetable oils (extracted from corn, soybeans, etc.) are commonly added to pet foods.

AAFCO lists no dietary requirement for fiber, and dogs and cats do not digest fiber. Conventional pet food ingredients will provide two to four percent dietary fiber. But there are differences among the fiber sources and also different reasons for inclusion of fibrous ingredients in pet foods. Many quality dog foods will contain absorptive fibers like beet pulp (fibrous remains from extraction of sugar from sugar beets) or tomato pomace to help produce a firm stool and for improved digestive function. "Light" dog foods may contain additional fiber sources such as rice hulls or peanut hulls to reduce energy content for weight maintenance or weight reduction. Intermediate fiber sources such as corn bran, rice bran, or wheat middlings are added to economy pet foods to reduce cost.

AAFCO states that pet foods may contain no more than 78% moisture (canned). Dry pet foods would normally contain a maximum of 10-12% moisture. Moisture provides no nutrition to the pet, but higher moisture products tend to be more palatable. Moisture level of pet foods should be considered when deciding on the relative merits of canned versus dry pet foods.

Feeding directions as a minimum must state the amount in common terms (cups, ounces) that must be fed to dogs or cats based on their body weight. Light dog foods may in addition provide directions for weight loss. All amounts given are estimates based on the energy value of the food and the estimated energy needs of the adult dog at a given size. Additional needs for growth, lactation and activity are not generally considered.

The nutritional adequacy statement required by AAFCO may be based on successful outcomes of feeding studies outlined by AAFCO, or may be based on comparison of pet food nutrient levels with AAFCO minimum levels. If the pet food is based on the former, then the statement "animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that "xyz" pet food provides complete and balanced nutrition for all life stages" will appear on the bag. Otherwise, the following statement will be used: "xyx" pet food is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO Dog or Cat Food Nutrient Profile for all life stages." Support of nutritional adequacy statements with actual feeding studies is obviously preferable.

In accordance with AAFCO regulations, each ingredient in a pet food must be listed, and they must be listed in descending order of predominance in the formula. Knowing this, many people when comparing two pet foods and observing that meat is in the number one position on one label and not on the other, might mistakenly assume that the former has more meat than the latter. It may, but it also may simply have more grain sources or fewer sources of protein than the other product. It is also important to know that ingredient listings are misleading to the customers of food containing "real" meat. So-called "real" meat ingredients like chicken, lamb etc. are actually meat slurries containing 75 to 80% water that are pumped into the mix during extrusion. Since all dry pet foods are dried down to 10% moisture or less before packaging, the water content that was a part of the slurry is lost and the remaining weight of the meat slurry is a much smaller part of the mix than the label leads you to believe. Rendered ingredients like meat meal and by-product meals contain less than 10% moisture and are properly represented on the label.

Denzil M. Hughes of

Q.  What are the German Commands for training dogs?
A.  Below you'll find all the necessary commands in English, German, French, Czech & 
      Dutch.

 

ENGLISH

GERMAN

FRENCH

CZECH

DUTCH
Heel Fuss
(fooss)
Au pied
(oh-pee-aye)
K noze
(kno zay)
left=Volg
right= Rechts
Sit Sitz
(siitz)
Assis
(ah-see)
Sedni
(said nee)
Zit
Stay Bleib
(bly'b)
Reste
(rest)
Zustan Blijf
Down Platz Coucher
(coo-shay)
Lehni
(leh nee)
Af/
Liggen
Come/Here Hier
(hee er)
Ici(e see)/
Viens
Ke mne
(khemn yea)
Hier
Stand Steh
(shtay)
Debout
(da-boo)
Stuj (stuuya) Staan
Retrieve/
Fetch
Bring
(brrring)
Rapporte
(aport)
Aport Apport
Jump Hopp Saute (soot)/
Aller
Skoc/
Hop
Over
Go Out Voraus
(for owss)
En Avant
(onn-avauhnn)
Vpred
(va porshed)
Voruit
Track Such (tsuuk) Piste
(piss-te)
Stopa Keuring/
Zoek
Guard Pass auf/
Wache
Garde
(guard)
Pozor Bewaken
(bay-wawken)
Bite Packen/
Fass
Attaque/
Mord
Drz
(dursh)
Stellen
Out/Let Go Aus
(owss)
Halte(alt)/
Donne
(don-aye)
Pust
(pusht)
Los/Loslaten
(those-lawten)
Speak/Bark Gib Laut
(geblout)
Aboie
(ah-bwaa)
Parle
Stekej
(esteke)
Blaffen
(blauffen)
Luid
Narcotics/
Dope
Rauschgift Drogue Hledej oznac  
Find
narcotics
Such
Rauschgift
  Drogy  
Building/
Blind Search
Voran/
Revier
Cherche
(Sherch)
Revir
(revere)
Revieren
(ray-fee-eren)
Kennel/
Crate
Zwinger/
Box
Chenil Kotec Hok/
Kennel
Go Outside Geh Raus/
Geh Draussen
Dehors Jdi ven Naar Buiten
Go Ahead Geh Voraus Vas Volno Voor uit/
Vrij
Go Inside Geh rein
(gay rine)
Monte/
Entre
Pojd sem Ga de in
What is
going on?
Was ist los? Qu'est ce
qui ce passe?
Co je to?  
Good (praise) So ist brav Bon Garcon
(bon gar-scon)
Hodny
(hout nee)
Braaf/
Goedzo
Correction
Word "No"
Pfui (fooey)
Nein (nine)
Non/Mauvais/
Mechant
Fuj (pfui) Foei
Don't
do that!
Lass das sein Ne fais
pas ca
Fuj (pfui) Nee
OK In Ordnung D'accord Vyborne  
Eat food Nimm Futter Mange Vem si  
Helper
Stand Still
Bleiben Ruhig/
Steht Noch
Toi, ne
bouge pas
Ruce vzhuru  
Article
Search
Such Verloren Recherche D'article Hledej
Oznac
Zoek
Leave it Lass es Laisse/
Pas Touche
(pa-too-shay)
Nech to Los